CHAP. 26.—SCYTHIA.
Leaving the Ister, we come to the towns of Cremniscos[1],
Æpolium, the mountains of Macrocremnus, and the famous
river Tyra[2], which gives name to a town on the spot where
Ophiusa is said formerly to have stood. The Tyragetæ
inhabit a large island[3] situate in this river, which is distant
from Pseudostomos, a mouth of the Ister, so called, 130
miles. We then come to the Axiacæ, who take their name
from the river Axiaces[4], and beyond them, the Crobyzi, the
river Rhodes[5], the Sagarian Gulf[6], and the port of
Ordesos[7].
At a distance of 120 miles from the Tyra is the river
Borysthenes[8], with a lake and a people of similar name, as also
a town[9] in the interior, at a distance of fifteen miles from the
sea, the ancient names of which were Olbiopolis and Miletopolis. Again, on the shore is the port of the Achæi, and
the island of Achilles[10], famous for the tomb there of that
hero, and, at a distance of 125 miles from it, a peninsula
which stretches forth in the shape of a sword, in an oblique
direction, and is called, from having been his place of exercise,
Dromos Achilleos[11]: the length of this, according to Agrippa,
is eighty miles. The Taurian Scythians and the Siraci[12]
occupy all this tract of country.
At this spot begins a well-wooded district[13], which has
given to the sea that washes its banks the name of the
Hylæan Sea; its inhabitants are called Enœchadlæ[14]. Beyond them is the river Pantieapes[15], which separates the
Nomades[16] and the Georgi, and after it the Acesinus[17]. Some
authors say that the Panticapes flows into the Borysthenes
below Olbia[18]. Others, who are more correct, say that it is
the Hypanis[19]: so great is the mistake made by those who
have placed it[20] in Asia.
The sea runs in here and forms a large gulf[21], until there
is only an intervening space[22] of five miles between it and the
Lake Mæotis, its margin forming the sea-line of extensive
tracts of land, and numerous nations; it is known as the Gulf
of Carcinites. Here we find the river Pacyris[23], the towns of
Navarum and Carcine[24], and behind it Lake Buges[25], which
discharges itself by a channel into the sea. This Buges is
separated by a ridge of rocks[26] from Coretus, a gulf in the
Lake Mæotis; it receives the rivers Buges[27], Gerrus[28], and
Hypacaris[29], which approach it from regions that lie in
various directions. For the Gerrus separates the Basilidæ
from the Nomades, the Hypacaris flows through the Nomades and the
Hylæi, by an artificial channel into Lake
Buges, and by its natural one into the Gulf of Coretus:
this region bears the name of Scythia Sindice.
At the river Carcinites, Scythia Taurica[30] begins, which
was once covered by the sea, where we now see level
plains extended on every side: beyond this the land rises into
mountains of great elevation. The peoples here are thirty
in number, of which twenty-three dwell in the interior, six
of the cities being inhabited by the Orgocyni, the Chara-
ceni[31], the Lagyrani, the Tractari, the Arsilachitæ, and the
Caliordi. The Scythotauri possess the range of mountains:
on the west they are bounded by the Chersonesus, and on
the east by the Scythian Satarchæ[32]. On the shore, after
we leave Carcinites, we find the following towns; Taphræ[33],
situate on the very isthmus of the peninsula, and
then Heraclea Chersonesus[34], to which its freedom has been
granted[35] by the Romans. This place was formerly called
Megarice, being the most polished city throughout all these
regions, in consequence of its strict preservation of Grecian
manners and customs. A wall, five miles in length, surrounds it. Next
to this comes the Promontory of Parthenium[36], the city of the
Tauri, Placia, the port of the Symboli[37], and the Promontory of
Criumetopon[38], opposite to
Carambis[39], a promontory of Asia, which runs out in the
middle of the Euxine, leaving an intervening space between
them of 170 miles, which circumstance it is in especial that
gives to this sea the form of a Scythian bow. After leaving
this headland we come to a great number of harbours and
lakes of the Tauri[40]. The town of Theodosia[41] is distant
from Criumetopon 125 miles, and from Chersonesus 165.
Beyond it there were, in former times, the towns of Cytæ,
Zephyrium, Acræ, Nymphæum, and Dia. Panticapæum[42], a
city of the Milesians, by far the strongest of them all, is
still in existence; it lies at the entrance of the Bosporus,
and is distant from Theodosia eighty-seven miles and a half,
and from the town of Cimmerium, which lies on the other
side of the Strait, as we have previously[43] stated, two miles
and a half. Such is the width here of the channel which
separates Asia from Europe, and which too, from being
generally quite frozen over, allows of a passage on foot.
The width of the Cimmerian Bosporus[44] is twelve miles and
a half: it contains the towns of Hermisium[45], Myrmecium,
and, in the interior[46] of it, the island of Alopece. From the
spot called Taphræ[47], at the extremity of the isthmus, to the
mouth of the Bosporus, along the line of the Lake Mæotis,
is a distance of 260 miles.
Leaving Taphræ, and going along the mainland, we find
in the interior the Auchetæ[48], in whose country the Hypanis
has its rise, as also the Neurœ, in whose district the Borysthenes
has its source, the Geloni[49], the Thyssagetæ, the Budini,
the Basilidæ, and the Agathyrsi[50] with their azure-coloured
hair. Above them are the Nomades, and then a nation of
Anthropophagi or cannibals. On leaving Lake Buges, above
the Lake Mæotis we come to the Sauromatæ and the
Essedones[51]. Along the coast, as far as the river
Tanais[52], are
the Mæotæ, from whom the lake derives its name, and the
last of all, in the rear of them, the Arimaspi. We then
come to the Riphæan[53] mountains, and the region known by
the name of Pterophoros[54], because of the perpetual fall of
snow there, the flakes of which resemble feathers; a part of
the world which has been condemned by the decree of
nature to lie immersed in thick darkness; suited for nothing
but the generation of cold, and to be the asylum of the
chilling blasts of the northern winds.
Behind these mountains, and beyond the region of the
northern winds, there dwells, if we choose to believe it, a
happy race, known as the Hyperborei[55], a race that lives to an
extreme old age, and which has been the subject of many marvellous
stories[56]. At this spot are supposed to be the hinges
upon which the world revolves, and the extreme limits of the
revolutions of the stars. Here we find light for six months
together, given by the sun in one continuous day, who does
not, however, as some ignorant persons have asserted, conceal
himself from the vernal equinox[57] to autumn. On the contrary,
to these people there is but one rising of the sun for the year,
and that at the summer solstice, and but one setting, at the
winter solstice. This region, warmed by the rays of the
sun, is of a most delightful temperature, and exempt from
every noxious blast. The abodes of the natives are the
woods and groves; the gods receive their worship singly
and in groups, while all discord and every kind of sickness are
things utterly unknown. Death comes upon them
only when satiated with life; after a career of feasting,
in an old age sated with every luxury, they leap from a
certain rock there into the sea; and this they deem the
most desirable mode of ending existence. Some writers have
placed these people, not in Europe, but at the very verge of
the shores of Asia, because we find there a people called the
Attacori[58], who greatly resemble them and occupy a very
similar locality. Other writers again have placed them midway between the two suns, at the spot where it sets to the
Antipodes and rises to us; a thing however that cannot
possibly be, in consequence of the vast tract of sea which
there intervenes. Those writers who place them nowhere[59]
but under a day which lasts for six months, state that in the
morning they sow, at mid-day they reap, at sunset they
gather in the fruits of the trees, and during the night conceal
themselves in caves. Nor are we at liberty to entertain any
doubts as to the existence of this race; so many authors[60]
are there who assert that they were in the habit of sending
their first-fruits to Delos to present them to Apollo, whom
in especial they worship. Virgins used to carry them, who
for many years were held in high veneration, and received
the rites of hospitality from the nations that lay on the
route; until at last, in consequence of repeated violations
of good faith, the Hyperboreans came to the determination
to deposit these offerings upon the frontiers of the people
who adjoined them, and they in their turn were to convey
them on to their neighbours, and so from one to the other,
till they should have arrived at Delos. However, this
custom, even, in time fell into disuse.
The length of Sarmatia, Scythia, and Taurica, and of the
whole of the region which extends from the river Borysthenes, is, according to Agrippa, 980 miles, and its breadth
717. I am of opinion, however, that in this part of the
earth all estimates of measurement are exceedingly doubtful.
1. Placed by Forbiger near Lake Burmasaka, or near Islama.
2. The Dniester. The mountains of Macrocremnus, or the "Great
Heights," seem not to have been identified.
3. According to Hardouin, the modern name of this island is Tandra.
4. Now called the Teligul, east of the Tyra or Dniester.
5. Now called Sasik Beregen, according to Brotier.
6. The modern Gulf of Berezen, according to Brotier.
7. Probably the modern Okzakow.
8. The modern Dnieper. It also retains its ancient name of Borysthenes.
9. We learn from Strabo that the name of this town was Olbia, and
that from being founded by the Milesians, it received the name of
Miletopolis. According to Brotier, the modern Zapurouski occupies its
site,
between the mouths of the river Buzuluk.
10. This was adjacent to the strip of land called "Dromos Achilleos," or
the 'race-course of Achilles.' It is identified by geographers with the
little island of Zmievoi or Oulan Adassi, the 'Serpents Island.' It was
said that it was to this spot that Thetis transported the body of Achilles.
By some it was made the abode of the shades of the blest, where Achilles
and other heroes of fable were the judges of the dead.
11. A narrow strip of land N.W. of the Crimea and south of the mouth
of the Dnieper, running nearly due west and cast. It is now divided
into two parts called Kosa Tendra and Kosa Djarilgatch. Achilles was
said to have instituted games here.
12. According to Hardouin, the Siraci occupied a portion of the present
Podolia and Ukraine, and the Tauri the modern Bessarabia.
13. According to Herodotus, this region, called Hylæa, lay to the east of
the Borysthenes. It seems uncertain whether there are now any traces
of this ancient woodland; some of the old maps however give the name
of the "Black Forest" to this district. From the statements of modern
travellers, the woody country does not commence till the river Don has
been reached. The district of Hylæa has been identified by geographers
with the great plain of Janboylouk in the steppe of the Nogai.
14. For Enœchadlæ, Hardouin suggests that we should read
Inde Hylœ,
"hence the inhabitants are called by the name of Hylæi."
15. The Panticapes is usually identified with the modern Somara, but
perhaps without sufficient grounds. It is more probably the Kouskawoda.
16. The Nomades or wandering, from the Georgi or agricultural Scythians.
17. The Acesinus does not appear to have been identified by modern
geographers.
18. Above called Olbiopolis or Miletopolis.
19. The Bog or Bong. Flowing parallel with the Borysthenes or
Dnieper, it discharged itself into the Euxine at the town of Olbia, at no
great distance from the mouth of the Borysthenes.
20. Probably meaning the mouth or point at which the river discharges
itself into the sea.
21. The modern Gulf of Negropoli or Perekop, on the west side of the
Chersonesus Taurica or Crimea.
22. Forming the present isthmus of Perekop, which divides the Sea of
Perekop from the Sea of Azof.
23. Called by Herodotus Hypacyris, and by later writers Carcinites. It
is generally supposed to be the same as the small stream now known as
the Kalantchak.
24. Hardouin says that the city of Carcine has still retained its name,
but changed its site. More modern geographers however are of opinion
that nothing can be determined with certainty as to its site. Of the site
also of Navarum nothing seems to be known.
25. Or Buces or Byce. This is really a gulf, almost
enclosed, at the end
of the Sea of Azof. Strabo gives a more full description of it under the
name of the Sapra Limnè "the Putrid Lake," by which name it is still
called, in Russian, Sibaché or Sivaché Moré. It is a vast lagoon, covered
with water when an east wind blows the water of the Sea of Azof into it,
but at other times a tract of slime and mud, sending forth pestilential
vapours.
26. It is rather a ridge of sand, that almost separates it from the waters
of the gulf.
27. This river has not been identified by modern geographers.
28. According to Herodotus the Gerrhus or Gerrus fell into the Hypacaris; which must be understood to be, not the Kalantchak, but the
Outlook. It is probably now represented by the Moloschnijawoda,
which forms a shallow lake or marsh at its mouth.
29. It is most probable that the Pacyris, mentioned above, the Hypacaris, and the Carcinites, were various names for the same river, generally supposed, as stated above, to be the small stream of Kalantchak.
30. Now the Crimea.
31. It does not appear that the site of any of these cities has been identified. Charax was a general name for a fortified town.
32. Mentioned again by Pliny in B. vi. c. 7. Solinus says that in order
to repel avarice, the Satarchæ prohibited the use of gold and silver.
33. On the site of the modern Perekop, more commonly called Orkapi.
34. Or Chersonesus of the Heracleans. The town of Kosleve or Eupatoria is supposed to stand on its site.
35. After the conquest of Mithridates, when the whole of these regions
fell into the hands of the Romans.
36. The modern Felenk-burun. So called from the Parthenos or Virgin
Diana or Artemis, whose temple stood on its heights, in which human
sacrifices were offered to the goddess.
37. Supposed to be the same as the now-famed port of Balaklava.
38. The modern Aia-burun, the great southern headland of the Crimea.
According to Plutarch, it was called by the natives Brixaba, which,
like the name Criumetopon, meant the "Rain's Head."
39. Now Kerempi, a promontory of Paphlagonia in Asia Minor. Strabo
considers this promontory and that of Criumetopon as dividing the
Euxine into two seas.
40. According to Strabo, the sea-line of the Tauric Chersonesus, after
leaving the port of the Symboli, extended 125 miles, as far as Theodosia.
Pliny would here seem to make it rather greater.
41. The modern Kaffa occupies its site. The sites of many of the places
here mentioned appear not to be known at the present day.
42. The modern Kertsch, situate on a hill at the very mouth of the
Cimmerian Bosporus, or Straits of Enikale or Kaffa, opposite the town
of Phanagoria in Asia.
43. In C. 24 of the present Book. Clark identifies the town of Cimmerium with the modern Temruk, Forbiger with Eskikrimm. It is
again mentioned in B. vi. c. 2.
44. He alludes here, not to the Strait so called, but to the Peninsula
bordering upon it, upon which the modern town of Kertsch is situate,
and which projects from the larger Peninsula of the Crimea, as a sort of
excrescence on its eastern side.
45. Probably Hermes or Mercury was its tutelar divinity: its site
appears to be unknown.
46. Probably meaning the Straits or passage connecting the Lake Mæotis
with the Euxine. The fertile district of the Cimmerian Bosporus was
at one time the granary of Greece, especially Athens, which imported
thence annually 400,000 medimni of corn.
47. A town so called on the Isthmus of Perekop, from a ta/fros or
trench, which was cut across the isthmus at this point.
48. Lomonossov, in his History of Russia, says that these people were
the same as the Sclavoni: but that one meaning of the name 'Slavane'
being "a boaster," the Greeks gave them the corresponding appellation
of Auchetæ, from the word au)xh\, which signifies "boasting."
49. Of the Geloni, called by Virgil "picti," or "painted," nothing certain seems to be known: they are associated by Herodotus with the
Budini, supposed to belong to the Slavic family by Schafarik. In B. iv.
c. 108,109, of his History, Herodotus gives a very particular account of
the Budini, who had a city built entirely of wood, the name of which was
Gelonus. The same author also assigns to the Geloni a Greek origin.
50. The Agathyrsi are placed by Herodotus near the upper course of the
river Maris, in the S.E. of Dacia or the modern Transylvania. Pliny
however seems here to assign them a different locality.
51. Also called "Assedones" and "Issedones." It has been suggested by
modern geographers that their locality must be assigned to the east of
Ichim, on the steppe of the central horde of the Kirghiz, and that of the
Arimaspi on the northern declivity of the chain of the Altaï.
52. Now the Don.
53. Most probably these mountains were a western branch of the Ura-
lian chain.
54. From the Greek pteroforo\s, "wing-bearing" or "feather-bearing."
55. This legendary race was said to dwell in the regions beyond Boreas,
or the northern wind, which issued from the Riphæan mountains, the
name of which was derived from ripai\ or "hurricanes "issuing from
a cavern, and which these heights warded off from the Hyperboreans and
sent to more southern nations. Hence they never felt the northern
blasts, and enjoyed a life of supreme happiness and undisturbed repose.
"Here," says Humboldt, "are the first views of a natural science which
explains the distribution of heat and the difference of climates by local
causes—by the direction of the winds—the proximity of the sun, and the
action of a moist or saline principle."—Asie Ceatrale, vol. i.
56. Pindar says, in the "Pytha," x. 56, "The Muse is no stranger to
their manners. The dances of girls and the sweet melody of the lyre
and pipe resound on every side, and wreathing their locks with the
glistening bay, they feast joyously. For this sacred race there is no doom
of sickness or of disease; but they live apart from toil and battles, undisturbed by the exacting Nemesis."
57. Hardouin remarks that Pomponius Mela, who asserts that the
sun rises here at the vernal and sets at the autumnal equinox, is right in
his position, and that Pliny is incorrect in his assertion. The same
commentator thinks that Pliny can have hardly intended to censure Mela,
to whose learning he had been so much indebted for his geographical
information, by applying to him the epithet "imperitus," 'ignorant'
or 'unskilled'; he therefore suggests that the proper reading here is,
"ut non imperiti dixere," "as some by no means ignorant persons have
asserted."
58. The Attacori are also mentioned in B. vi. c. 20.
59. Sillig omits the word "non" here, in which case the reading would
be, "Those writers who place them anywhere but, &c.;" it is difficult to
see with what meaning.
60. Herodotus, B. iv., states to this effect, and after him, Pomponius
Mela, B. iii. c. 5.